In the world of 18th-century fashion, the peruke maker played a unique and fascinating role. With wigs being an essential part of fashion for both men and women, peruke makers were in high demand. These skilled artisans crafted wigs that symbolized status and style, essential for those seeking to make an impression.
Wig-making required a deep understanding of style trends, as well as the ability to work with various materials. Peruke makers not only designed but also maintained and styled wigs for their clients. As time passed, and fashion trends evolved, the art of the peruke maker faded, transforming into what we now recognize as the work of a wig maker.
While today the occupation of peruke maker is largely obsolete, its historical significance remains intriguing. This once-thriving trade provides a unique look into the past, where hairstyles reflected societal status and personal identity.
Historical Significance of Peruke Makers
Peruke makers were key players in 17th to 19th-century fashion. Their wigs represented power, status, and style during this period. Understanding their origin and impact helps us appreciate their role in society.
Origin and Evolution
The term “peruke” originated in the 16th century when wig-wearing gained popularity. By the 17th century, perukes became a symbol of fashion and authority. These wigs featured long hair, often with curls, worn by European aristocracy.
Louis XIII of France helped boost their popularity when he began wearing a wig in the mid-1600s. By the 18th century, perukes were common among men of all social classes, making wig-making a thriving profession. As fashion trends changed over time, the demand and style of wigs evolved, eventually leading to their decline by the 19th century.
Cultural and Social Impact
Peruke makers significantly influenced cultural and social norms. Wigs were symbols of wealth and power, worn by royalty, judges, and other prominent figures. This created a booming trade for peruke makers who ensured their clients appeared fashionable and respectable.
In places like Williamsburg, these artisans were vital to the community by providing essential grooming services. Moreover, wigs removed the need for regular hair styling or cutting, adding convenience. As the styles and perceptions of wigs shifted, their social significance also changed, impacting the livelihoods of the peruke makers.
Peruke Styles and Materials
Perukes, known as wigs today, were not just practical but also fashionable. They came in various styles and were made from different materials that suited the wearer’s status and needs.
Types of Perukes
In the 17th and 18th centuries, there were several distinct styles of perukes. The Full Bottomed Wig was popular, featuring long curls that draped over the shoulders. This style was often worn by judges and high-ranking officials. Another style was the Bag Wig, which had its hair tied back in a small bag at the nape. This was more practical for everyday use. The Bob Wig was shorter and more comfortable, often worn by military men as it was easier to maintain.
Those who could afford it often chose elaborate styles to display wealth and status. These wigs not only followed fashion trends but also provided a sense of social standing. People often selected peruke styles based on the occasion and their social class.
Materials Used in Peruke Construction
Perukes were typically made from various materials, each providing its own unique texture and appearance. Commonly used was human hair, valued for its natural look and feel. White horsehair was another popular choice, giving perukes a distinctive color that was fashionable at the time.
Some perukes were made with goat hair, which was less expensive but coarser. Powders were often applied to the wigs to maintain hygiene and add different scents. These powders could also tint the wigs, with white being a favored color. The choice of materials often reflected the wearer’s status, with more luxurious materials reserved for those of higher social standing.
Craftsmanship of Peruke Making
The art of peruke making involved intricate skills and specialized training. Techniques varied, using distinct tools and materials. Apprenticeship played a vital role in passing down this craftsmanship to new generations.
Techniques and Tools
Peruke makers, or wig makers, used a set of specific tools and techniques to craft elaborate wigs. They employed wooden blocks to shape the wigs, curling tongs to style them, and carding tools to prepare hair. Various materials such as horsehair, human hair, and sometimes goat hair were used. The wigs were either woven or sewn, with attention to detail being crucial to mimic natural hair movement.
The process required precision and patience. Creating a wig involved sorting hair lengths, cleaning, and sometimes dyeing. Each step needed great care to ensure a high-quality product. This craft was both an art and a science, requiring the maker to adapt techniques to the demands of fashion and the preferences of their clientele.
Apprenticeship and Training
Becoming a skilled peruke maker often began with an apprenticeship. Young apprentices would work under a master wig maker for several years. They learned basic tasks like preparing hair and sewing, gradually taking on more complex tasks.
Training included understanding the intricacies of different wig styles and mastering the styling techniques needed.
As part of their training, apprentices in places like Colonial Williamsburg would also learn to use all the necessary tools and materials effectively.
By the end of their training, they could produce wigs independently, maintaining the craftsmanship standards associated with this once essential trade.
Economic Aspects
In the 18th century, peruke makers played a significant role in the economy by creating and selling wigs. This involved special skills in crafting and marketing, as well as attracting wealthy patrons who wanted to display their status through elaborate wigs.
Trade and Merchandising
Peruke makers were skilled artisans who crafted wigs using materials like goat, yak, horse, or human hair. Their work required intricate weaving and knotting. In cities, they set up shops to sell their creations. Marketing was crucial, as evidenced by their advertisements in American newspapers. These ads highlighted their expertise and the quality of their products.
Wig makers needed to keep up with fashion trends to ensure their products were in demand. This meant constantly adapting to changes in styles, and sometimes importing hair or materials from distant places to maintain quality. They often partnered with merchants for better distribution, ensuring their wigs reached elite customers eager to display their wealth and status.
Patronage and Clientele
Wealthy individuals were the main clientele for peruke makers. These included planters, merchants, and other professionals. Wigs were a symbol of social status and importance. Wearing a wig was a way to show power and sophistication.
Peruke makers relied on patronage from these clients to sustain their business. They often formed personal relationships with their customers to secure repeat business. By providing custom-made wigs, they catered to the unique fashion preferences of each patron. This personalized service ensured that clients kept coming back for the latest styles and trends.
Peruke Makers in Society
Peruke makers were an essential part of 18th-century society, providing the latest styles for both men and women. They influenced fashion and often collaborated with the wealthy and influential, cementing their unique social role.
Notable Peruke Makers
Some peruke makers gained significant fame due to their innovative designs and high-quality craftsmanship. Richard Arkwright, for instance, was renowned in the 18th century and had his trade cards displayed in prominent places like the British Museum. Their work wasn’t just about skill; it also involved understanding the latest trends and catering to the needs of influential clients. These artisans often became trendsetters, influencing hairstyles far beyond their workshops. The distinction and skill of these peruke makers not only earned them financial success but also a form of celebrity status among their contemporaries.
Daily Life and Social Standing
In daily life, peruke makers operated busy shops, often bustling with clients from various social classes. The craft required precision in measuring and styling wigs, as described in the Wig Makers’ shop in Williamsburg.
While their livelihood depended on wealthy patrons, peruke makers themselves were often considered part of the middle class. Their social standing was bolstered by their interaction with nobility and gentry, who relied on their expertise for special occasions and court appearances. The combination of skill, business acumen, and social connections allowed many to lead comfortable lives.
In many communities, these artisans were respected for their work and often involved in local social circles, further cementing their place in society.
The Decline of Peruke Making
In the late 18th century, the peruke making profession began to decline. The shift in fashion trends played a significant role. Men started to prefer natural hairstyles over wigs. This change was partly influenced by figures like Louis XIII, who popularized wigs earlier on, but tastes eventually evolved.
Economic Factors:
- Wigs were expensive to make and maintain.
- Growing demand for simpler clothing and hairstyles reduced the need for elaborate wigs.
- The rise of barbers offering similar services at lower prices contributed to the decline.
Fashion Trends:
The late 1700s and early 1800s saw a shift towards more natural appearances. Powdered wigs and large perukes were replaced by simpler and natural styles. This change reflected broader societal movements towards simplicity and away from extravagance.
Impact on Peruke Makers:
Many peruke makers had to adapt or close their shops. Some transitioned to other related professions, such as regular barbering or hairdressing. In places like Williamsburg, about 50 men practiced peruke making, and they faced the choice of changing their trade entirely.
The demand for wigs dwindled, and the once-thriving profession became mostly obsolete by the 19th century. As fewer people wore wigs, the art of peruke making faded into history, with only a few dedicated artisans keeping the tradition alive.